Amarnath
Yatra Trekking from Pahalgam
The trek from Pahalgam to Amarnathji cave is on an
ancient peregrine route. The 45 - km distance is covered
in four days, with night halts at Chandanwari, Sheshnag
(Wawjan) and Panchtarni. The distance from Pahalgam to
Chandanwari (16 km) is now covered by motor transport.
The pilgrims camp here or at Pahalgam on the first night
out. The first day's trek of 13 km from Chandanwari is
through spectacular, primeval countryside. The main
centre of attraction on this trek is Sheshnag, a
mountain lake which derives its name from its seven
peaks, resembling the heads of a mythical snake. The
journey to Sheshnag follows steep inclines up the right
bank of a cascading stream and wild scenery untouched by
civilisation.
The second night's camp at Wawjan overlooks the deep
blue water of Sheshnag lake, and glaciers beyond it. The
lake is also associated with legends of love and
revenge, and at the camp these are recounted by
campfires, to the stillness of a pine-scented, Himalayan
night.
Trek:
Pahalgam To Amarnath Cave Via Mahagunas Pass
Main Trek Base:
Altitude: 4,175m (13,700ft).
During the yatra, stages of the walk are carefully
controlled by the Indian authorities. The first stage of
the trek is to Chandanwadi, the second to Sheshnag and
the third over the Mahagunas Pass to Panchtami. Many
pilgrims visit the cave from Panchtami and return to
Sheshnag the same day, walking back to Pahalgam on the
fifth day.
Day 1: Pahalgam To Chandanwadi
(Average walking time 4 hours)
The trail leaves Pahalgam on a bitumen road, past the
Shankar temple and along the east Liddar valley. The
trail is easy to follow indeed it is suitable for jeeps
as far as Chandanwadi (2,900m). There are many obvious
short cuts on the route, and a number of tea stalls, as
this first Day always seems to be quite hot. The
campsite is in a pleasant glade just before the main
line of tea stalls.
Day 2: Chandanwadi To Sheshnag
(Average walking time 5 to 6 hours)
From Chandanwadi the trail winds steeply for 500m to the
summit of ridge known as Pisu Top (3,390m). From here,
there are commanding views back down the valley to the
mountains beyond Pahalgam. During the main pilgrimage,
the tea stall owners do a thriving business, which keeps
the pilgrims going on the long incline to the next main
resting area at Wawajana (3,550m). From here it is two
to three km further to Sheshnag (3,720m). The glacial
lake is set in remarkable surroundings, its waters
reflecting the snow capped peaks of Vishnu, Shiva and
Brahma. Rumour among pilgrims has it that the lake is
inhabited by a serpent of Loch Ness monster proportions,
so it's advisable not to camp too close to the water's
edge.
Day 3: Sheshnag To Panchtarni
(Average walking time 6 hours)
The trail gradually ascends from Sheshnag with
magnificent views of the mountains immediately above.
The ascent towards the Mahagunas Pass winds up to a
grassy plateau, and from there on to the pass it is a
further hour's climb. The sign at the top of the pass
states the height as 4,270m. It is not a dramatic pass,
but it is still no mean achievement for the pilgrims,
many of whom have never been beyond the Indian plains
before.
The descent to Panchtarni (3,450m) is quite long and
tiring, but there are frequent flowered meadows to rest
in and admire. The campsite can be seen from afar; and
behind, on a further ridge, the bare, treeless
mountainscape resembles the terrain on the far side of
the Himalayas. There are more spacious campsites
upstream from the main camping area, and these are also
a little cleaner.
Day 4: Panchtarni To Amarnath Cave & Return
(Average walking time 5 hours return)
The actual time to the cave will depend on whether one's
trek coincides with the main pilgrimage. During the
pilgrimage an early start is essential, with many of the
pilgrims move more steadily and slowly than on the rest
of the trek, as if in awe of their surroundings.
The climb to the Singh Pass (3,850m) is gradual before
the trail enters the Amarnath valley. It descends to a
permanently blackened snow bridge, which fords the
Amarvati stream before ascending the true right back to
the base of the mountain. From here the final ascent is
up a series of concrete steps to the entrance to the
Amarnath Cave (4,050m). The J&K police manning the
entrance to the cave only permit a limited number of
pilgrims inside at any one time.
Day 5: Panchtarni To Chandanwadi
(Average walking time 8 hours)
Many pilgrims return from Panchtarni to Chandanwadi in
one day. After completing their pilgrimage to the cave
most are happy to trek as far as they can the following
Day.
Day 6: Chandanwadi To Pahalgam
(Average walking time 4 hours)
On the final Day most pilgrims arrive back in the
Pahalgam bazaar with enough time to complete the drive
to Srinagar or Jammu the same day. |